Category Archives: Nature

Christmas in the Backcountry

Backway Sign

The Backway. Down Burr Trail.

This was quite different.  An enormous gulf was between me and the world.  This was a different universe – withered, desert, lifeless; a fantastic universe where the presence of man was not foreseen, perhaps not desired. – Maurice Herzog, Annapurna

Fifty-eight years before Christopher McCandless hiked into Alaska to find himself (but died before completing the process…), 20-year old Everett Ruess wandered through the forbidding and desolate south central and southern Utah backcountry and disappeared. A hunter found Christopher’s body, but Everett was never found, though people have been searching for him ever since he vanished. There were a few tantalizing clues: Everett’s two mules were found tied up at a site where he’d camped; in a letter to his parents he wrote: As to when I shall visit civilization, it will not be soon, I think - and the name Nemo was discovered scratched into rock in several places. Nemo (“no man” in Latin) was the name Everett took to calling himself.  Ugly rumors circulated through the town in which he was last seen – some thought that Everett was murdered by cattle rustlers. He might have fallen from a cliff or gotten trapped in a slot canyon. Or maybe he just wanted to disappear.

I read about Everett a while back. It’s just the kind of story that fascinates me. I don’t have a risk-taker bone in my body, but I’m drawn to the lonely canyons, the red rock and slick rock, the twisted junipers, the colorful arches, fins, hoodoos and searing blue skies of southern Utah. Combine that with a real life mystery and I’m hooked like a Lake Erie Walleye. Kel and I spent Christmas in the thin air of Boulder without realizing until later that we were in Everett country. Boulder and sort-of nearby Escalante were Everett’s last known stomping grounds. He disappeared into the massive Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument which encompasses a mere 1,880,461 acres of pitiless landscape. It’s no wonder his remains were never found.

In addition to hiking in the Boulder area, we made our slow way home via Kodachrome Basin and Bryce Canyon. One huge advantage Kel and I have discovered about traveling here in the winter is that there are few other fools willing to do so. It’s possible to have stunning trails and sprawling National Parks all to one’s self (with the exception of Bryce Canyon which was teeming with visitors. At 7 degrees Fahrenheit accompanied by a bone-chilling wind, it was an astounding sight to see cars lined up at the entrance point.) Below are some pictures from our trip.

One Year Ago Today: Basic Seitan

Snowing in Boulder, UT

Snowing in Boulder, UT

Snow Crystals

Snow crystals, Bryce Canyon

Bryce Amphitheater

Looking into Bryce Amphitheater from Bryce Point

Bryce Amphitheater

Bryce Amphitheater

Natural Bridge, Bryce Canyon

Natural Bridge, Bryce Canyon

Calf Creek Canyon

Calf Creek Canyon, contrails

Lower Calf Creek Falls

Lower Calf Creek Falls

Calf Creek Canyon Overlook

Calf Creek Canyon Overlook

Wildflower, snow

Pasture in Boulder, UT

Pasture in Boulder, UT

Kodachrome Basin

Ike enjoying Kodachrome Basin

Chimney, Kodachrome Basin

Chimney, Kodachrome Basin

Highway 12 scenic overlook

Highway 12 scenic overlook

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Sundance, The Point of the Mountain and a Day Away

Sundance

August skies are lullabies/promises to keep
dandelions and twisting vines/clover at your feet
memories of aspen leaves/ trembling in the wind
honeybees and fantasies/where to start again
some place cool an’ green an’ shady
- John Denver, Cool an’ Green an’ Shady

It happened on an otherwise normal Thursday at around 5:30 pm, just as we were about to sit down to dinner and midway through a phone conversation the kind of which I’d had one too many of in the past few weeks.  What had been on a slow simmer began to boil.  My last nerve was shot.  I was suffering from road rage, sidewalk rage, apartment-building-hallway rage – not to mention grocery aisle rage – and for the next few hours I fumed and moped around like Victoria Beckham having to wear her “fat jeans.” Ike crawled under his side table “cave” and Kel nodded solemnly at my every curse and intoned, “Yes, dear.  Yes, dear,” a hopeful mantra designed to stave off the meltdown he could see coming.  The evening walk didn’t help.  A cup of hot chocolate made barely a dent.

Then a few hours after the phone call it hit me: I was seriously stressed out.  I needed a change of scenery and fast.  Luckily, a remedy was already in the works.  It was time to go where the air is thin and clean, the sky a piercing blue and where the wind holds an icy touch of the winter to come: the mountains.  By 10 am the next morning we were headed up to Bobby Redford’s little retreat in the Wasatch, Sundance.

Sundance

The winding road up to the resort is a therapy of its own.  One must concentrate on where the car is; there’s no space for anger or stress.  Sundance is tucked into the hills and amongst tall trees and despite the fact that there are restaurants, a screening room, art studios, cabins and homes (not to mention ski lifts and runs), it feels very secluded and small and homey.  Fall, in my opinion, is the perfect time to go.  Interspersed among the yellow-leaved aspens that blanket the mountainsides are bright dots of red, orange and deep green. We wandered around the resort and then treated ourselves to “wet” (no foam) soy lattes and settled onto a bench outside to watch the Beautiful People go by.  Because the tram up to the top of the mountain (and to hiking trails) doesn’t allow dogs, we finished up our lattes and decided to do our hiking elsewhere.

The road beyond Sundance is switchbacked and extremely narrow. It felt as if our car was skimming the edge of the road as vehicles coming the other direction drove past us.  I missed a lot of the scenery while hugging the road, but Kel reports that it was spectacular.  When we reached the Timpanogos trail head and the hiking route up to Stewart Falls we stopped for  a picnic lunch at the old amphitheater hidden among the pines, then we pulled on our day packs and headed up.  Unfortunately, just as the photo-taking was becoming interesting, my camera battery fizzled out and I had to turn to my trusty iPhone for the remainder of the hike.  The total 4-mile hike up and back to Stewart Falls took us about two hours.

Mountains

Mountains

On the way home we decided to take a short detour to visit The Point of the Mountains.  Kel had been reading a lot about paragliding lately and we learned that one of the premier spots in the country for the sport is right here in Utah.  When we arrived, it wasn’t looking good.  There were only a couple of cars in the parking lot and two guys gazing forlornly out from the high plateau down to the valley spread out below.  Two gliders lay still strapped to the tops of the cars, wrapped up tight in their canvas burritos.  There wasn’t a breath of wind.

Active Fly Zone

While Kel went off to interrogate Man Number One, Man Number Two suddenly appeared beside me and Ike.  We started talking about dogs and soon enough Dave, a hang-glider and instructor of 41 years, offered to take me up on his glider once the wind was right.  My mother didn’t raise a fool and I simply laughed it off and let Ike pull me away from the salesman pressure for a bit. Before long, Kel and Dave and I and Man Number One were talking wind and gliders and geography and how silly and foolish paragliders were as compared to hang-gliders.

Man Number One decided to set up his glider just in case the wind changed and Dave got to talking about thermals and how thermals were all about contrasts: dirt and pavement; high ground and low; heat and cool; light and dark.  I got it, but my mind wandered anyway.  The view out there was just too big, too beautiful.  Endless sky above, a long, flat valley below with the mighty artery of I-15 splitting it in two, teeming with rush hour cars headed for home, north and south; to the east the Wasatch buckled and climbed; to the west lay the hazy shimmer of the Great Salt Lake.  As Dave’s voice morphed into the pleasant hum of white noise, my eyes drifted upwards and I saw a large hawk circling high above the field on which we stood.  He was gliding effortlessly, wheeling in the air without moving a single feather.  No doubt it looked down upon us poor humans with pity and mirth.  Our puny wingspans, our heavy burden called gravity.  There was no doubt in my mind that his presence above the well-known hang-gliding and paragliding site was no accident. He was shoving his winged freedom in our faces.

Ann, Glider

At some point, Dave set up his glider and offered to let me slip into the upside down hammock-suit – “just to get a feel” for things.  Once I felt how comfortable it was he was pretty sure I’d be asking to take the glider for a spin with him. (For the low, low price of $100.)  I hung out in the hammock-suit for a while and then all at once a strong breeze rose over the plateau.  I looked across the field and saw paragliders everywhere – their colorful parachutes billowing and collapsing, rising and falling.  Some fliers were already strapped into their funny “seats” that resemble turtle shells, some dragging their chutes to the edge of the field where they would step off and hope to be lifted into the air.  Already gliders were circling above us, seeking the hawk’s thermal.  They made their slow way along the edge of the plateau and up and up, heading east and then west again, then east.  Some of them were high above, looking as if they were going to touch their toes along the mountain’s edge.  We feared the gliders – so close together – would collide and fall, but somehow they all missed each other.  I extricated myself from the hammock and soon enough we saw Dave climb into his suit and lope off carrying his hang-glider.  He walked slowly and with effort along the thin gravel runway at the end of which is a sign imbedded into the ground that admonishes pilots to “Hook In.”  Dave stood at the edge for a minute and then he was off the ground, soaring, moving with a speed and purpose unmatched by the paragliders.  He looked like a giant bird.  For a tiny second I wished I had hooked in next to him, but the solid earth felt pretty good under my feet.  He seemed to be heading straight for the sun.  I watched him for a while and then looked back above the field and then above the mountains, but the hawk was gone.  There were only humans flying.

(How does this fit into VeganMoFo?  Did I mention that I had two soy lattes that day?)

Hook In

VeganMoFo

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From 10k to Ten Mile

Ten Mile Wash, EveningI thought that I’d have a lot to write about after the weekend memorial for my brother, but it turns out that I don’t. I feel emptied out instead. There are only the details, big and small, that make up a trip. I thought I’d take lots of photos as I made my way through the scenic 10k; I didn’t pause once. And I thought I’d walk at least half of the race, but I didn’t. I ran it straight through.

There were nine of us (plus Ike) who completed the 10k and a support team of three who shuttled cars from the Start to the Finish and who cheered us in as we crossed the finish line and reached for our medals.

Afterwards, there were my brother’s friends waiting for us at Ten Mile Wash to drive us down into the sand and rocks to show us the spaces that meant so much to my brother. It is stark down there. Stark and harsh and bleak but clean, beautiful and heartbreaking.

The first stop was the site where my brother’s dog (Pooper) was buried years ago. Each of us carried a rock to add to her cairn. The second was a hollow, a cathedral interior of swirling red scooped out of bare rock called The Fishbowl (renamed The Chuck Bowl). If it wasn’t before, it certainly is now a sacred site. Something of my brother remains in both places. I felt him very strongly that day and understand him just a little bit better.

Back up above the wash there was food and beer and scotch; a blazing sunset fading into orange and pink as a blazing fire reached into the sky. There were dirt bikes and trailers, four-wheelers and one porta-potty perched in the bed of a pick-up truck. There were tears and hugs and memories and the persistent gnaw of loss. But the next day, as the fragile light from the morning sun crept along the rocks and as we pulled away from camp, there was relief and calm and a kind of joy.

Little Grand CanyonNear the Finish Line, Buckhorn Wash.

Kel & Ike, Finish LineKel & Ike cross the Finish Line.

Family GroupThe family post-race.

Race Bibs, MedalsMy bib and medal; my brother’s bib and medal.

Ten Mile Wash OverlookOverlooking Ten Mile Wash.

Pooper's GravePooper’s grave site.

From Pooper's GraveLooking out at the Wash from Pooper’s Grave.

The FishbowlInside The Chuck Bowl.

Flowers & AshesDesert flowers and ashes.

The Wash, MorningThe Wash in the morning.

CampCamp.

Tire Tread

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Late to the Party

Sunflower with BumblebeeJust as I did when Pinterest came out all hot and heavy on the scene, I resisted joining Instagram*.  Who needs it? thought I.  Who needs yet another way to obsess over acquiring Friends and Followers – to connect socially – to share more?  Not me, no way.  So it was only a matter of time, right?  Caving in, I recently added Instagram to my iPhone and true to probably every other Instagram user, I immediately starting snapping everything that moved and also everything that didn’t move.  Much to my surprise, my not-so-high-quality iPhone photos looked…really cool.  I share a few below (and one above).

Incidentally, I also came late – very late – to the Mac party.  A couple of days ago, my hard-working HP laptop died an unceremonious death.  Stuttering, freezing, faltering, its hard disk had apparently suffered irreparable damage from too many trips through airports; it finally balked at being crammed into overhead bins and possibly revolted over having to store too many food photos for the blog.  Like a person dashing out of a burning house, I grabbed what files I could and then retreated.  To the Apple Store.  I’ve been toying with the idea of becoming a Mac owner for years.  Now seemed like the perfect time to jump in.

*If you are an Android user, I recommend Vignette.  It has way more tweaking options than does Instagram.  I’m hoping to see Vignette create an app for the iPhone.

Ants

Watermelon Slices

Morning Walk

Garden Orb

Grapes, homegrown.

Ike in Black and White

Lemons

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The Spiral Jetty

Sign to Spiral JettyI don’t have a Bucket List of places around the world that I need to see before I shrug off this mortal coil, but – deep in the recesses of my mind – I do keep a list of sorts.  It’s a fairly short list of works of art that mean something to me for one reason or another.  Over the years I’ve been lucky enough to cross off the majority of the items on this mental list, but one has refused to budge.  It is, in fact, geographically the closest piece to me, yet it has remained frustratingly elusive.  Until recently, that is.

Strung out along the edge of Rozel Point on the Great Salt Lake in Utah, the earthwork Spiral Jetty was created by Robert Smithson over a few week period in April 1970.  It’s a delicate tendril of basalt rock and salt crystals that curls 1,500 feet out into the sometimes pink, sometimes red waters.  Come when the level of the lake is high (as we did) and the spiral nearly disappears.  At other times, one can walk onto the lake to the very end of the spiral and turn back to look at the shore and the scrubby brown hills rising away from it.

There is some work, planning and dedication involved in visiting the Jetty, although recent improvements to the gravel road out to the site have made going there relatively easy.  But it is in the middle of nowhere; Smithson chose his site perfectly.  The isolation and remoteness of the Jetty make it the ideal place for contemplation, reflection, connecting with the natural world or just a pleasant afternoon hike.  Lake and sky blend together at the horizon, the wind is constant, waves of yellow-green algae sweep along the jumbled surface of the Jetty and salt crystals sparkle among the black rocks as pelicans fly their steady, patient beat high above.  Smithson’s creation doesn’t impose on or overwhelm the surroundings.  Though obviously man-made, it feels like a natural extension of the shore (unlike the decaying relic of a true jetty not far from the Spiral Jetty).  Spending time with the Jetty is not unlike the feeling one gets from a long and satisfying yoga session.

All we have, it seems to me, is the beauty of art and nature and life and the love which that beauty inspires.
― Edward Abbey, The Journey Home: Some Words in Defense of the American West

Now, after extolling the virtues of this mystical place, I’m going to do my best Edward Abbey imitation by both encouraging you to go see this treasure – and imploring you to stay away.  Although it is made of rocks, the Spiral is touchingly fragile.  Too many feet will quickly destroy what has endured for the past forty-two years.  Not too long ago, Spiral-seekers needed 4-wheel drive, sturdy hiking boots (the last few miles had to be walked) and a true love of art and nature in order to pay homage to Smithson’s masterpiece.  Now anyone in a low-slung sedan can cruise to the edge of the Jetty, lean out of the car window to snap a photo, and speed off again, leaving a plume of light brown desert dust behind him.  If you come, come with respect, tread lightly and leave in awe of what nature can inspire in man.

The Road In

The road in.

Horses

A lucky tribe of horses.

Water

Water meets sky.

Rock Cairn

A rock cairn at an old, abandoned jetty not far from the Spiral Jetty.

Salt-splashed Rocks

Salt spray on rocks.

Old Pier

This is not the Spiral Jetty.

Pelicans

Black-winged pelicans.

Salt on Rocks

Salt, looking like snow.

Spiral Start

Where the Jetty begins.

Spiral Jetty From Above

The Spiral Jetty, from above and under water.

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How The Garden Grows

Green Tomato

Green tomatoes.

It’s really full-on summer here – though the calendar disagrees with me – in Oklahoma and besides having tomatoes, peppers and basil in the greenhouse, Kel has things humming along in the outside garden as well.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, he’s really been a one man show this year as far as the gardening goes.  I putter out to help here and there – and to help myself with whatever is ripe – but he’s done 99% of the work, and he’s done beautifully.

The garden space has slowly expanded since we moved here in 2007.  It took us a full year to realize that we cannot plant produce straight in the ground.  The soil just isn’t that good, but more than that, the Bermuda grass ate our lunch, so to speak.  It creeps, crawls and invades anything that it can.  So, we covered the garden plot with black plastic and let it cook for nearly a full year.  And we raised the beds to boot.  This year we’ve added a couple of new spots that will be ready next year, after the black plastic, the sun and the worms do their work.  Here’s how things look:

Full Garden

The full garden with areas under black plastic.

Basil Plants

Beautiful basil. Our honeybees will go crazy when these are in full bloom.

Strawberry Plant

A strawberry plant, new this year.

Grape Vine

So many grapes this year!

Green Peppers

Bell peppers from the greenhouse.

Potato Plant

Potato plants; imagine all of those happy, little spuds underground!

Straw Bale

Close-up of a straw bale. My artist’s eye loved the tangles of dry grass.

Blueberry Plant

Young blueberry plant, covered in unripe berries.

Row of Onions

Sturdy row of onions.

Lavender

One of my contributions: lavender.

Red Hot Pokers

Red Hot Poker, for the hummingbirds.

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Eight Arms of Inspiration

Fierce Octopus

Fierce Octopus. Final artwork submitted to Eight Arms of Inspiration.

I’d never drawn – never even thought about drawing – an octopus until a friend asked me to create something for an e-book she was getting ready to publish.  I had no idea how to begin – should I try for something realistic or go very stylized?  So I spent a lot of time looking at photos of these intelligent, beautiful creatures and making a lot of sketches.  After a few go-rounds, my friend selected the octopus that seemed right and I completed the remainder of the cover artwork and I put away octopus thoughts and sketches.

Quick Sketch

Quick pencil sketch.

And then, Jinxi Caddel of Simple Seed Candles (an Etsy shopowner like me) contacted me to find out if I had any octopus artwork that I would be interested in submitting as part of her project, Eight Arms of Inspiration.  Octopus artwork?  You bet your beak, I have some octopus artwork!  It was really kind of great.  I had done several sketches for my friend’s book that I had wanted to develop, but hadn’t made the time to do so.  Now here was the perfect opportunity.  Two of the finished products are included here along with some of my sketches.  I’m really thrilled to have been included in this project and want to thank Jinxi for contacting me.  I’ve only seen a tiny fraction of the artwork she’s received and it’s amazing.  Such an incredible variety and so much love and creativity.  I’ll let Jinxi tell you more about the project, below:

Black & Red Sketch

Watercolor sketch in black and red.

Black & Red Finished

Final artwork submitted to Eight Arms of Inspiration.

Eight Arms of Inspiration: The Octopus Art Project is a collaborative octopus art book project that seeks to honor outstanding artists and their work, while supporting arts education and keeping creativity alive in schools. The idea of the project rose from my lifelong adoration and intrigue with the almighty octopus.

As a writer, editor, and longtime cephalopod admirer (who also wears a large realistic octopus tattoo on my neck and chest area) it was inevitable that my love for collective art, octopi, and book projects would eventually collide.

For the past four years I have worked on some wonderful book projects for Memento Publishing as an editor and writer, where we create art and tattoo-related publications. One of our books, Cranial Visions, was a mixed medium collection featuring various artistic interpretations of the skull. I loved that this publication featured artists of many different mediums and I wanted to bring a talented group of creative souls together in a similar way where they were all focused on one subject.

Because of my fondness for cephalopods and the incredibly diverse ways that there are to bring their beauty to life, I decided that focusing on the octopus would be a great way to bring all of these artistic talents together and honor this beautiful eight-armed creature with three hearts, no bones, and blue blood, known as the octopus.

Another important element to the project was to give back to the artistic community and help to inspire young artists to follow their creative aspirations and keep their imaginations growing and flourishing. So an added incentive for getting involved in the Eight Arms Project is that 10% of the profits from book sales will go towards arts education through an incredible charitable organization called donorschoose.org that connects donors to classrooms in need.

The response to this idea has truly been overwhelming. The incredible array of submissions that have rolled in so far are awe-inspiring and I am consistently blown away each day when I go to my inbox and see the artistic beauty that is before me. The artists involved are not only talented and ingenious, but their love for this subject matter and passion for the project has been inspiring to the say the least.

We are looking at a fall release date for the book and there will be updates and information available on the Eight Arms of Inspiration website (www.EightArmsProject.com) and the Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/EightArmsProject) throughout the process.  After the submission deadline, we still plan to upload octopus artwork to the site and keep the octo-love flowing; so the book will not be the end of this project and we hope that everyone will continue to create and come together as a creative force!

Thanks for your help and time!

Eight arms of hugs,

Jinxi

Blue & Purple Sketch

Blue & Purple Sketch

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We Walk

Deja vu?  Due to a computer glitch (read: operator error), this post was published recently – prematurely.  Somehow my finger managed to hit “Publish” instead “Save Draft.”  WordPress, maybe you could add an “Are You Sure, Idiot?” message before publishing?  I’ve added a few photos since that inadvertent post.  These are some of the images that Kel, Ike and I see on our daily walks.

Morning:

Foggy Pasture

Hackberry Tree in Morning Fog.

Foggy Pond

Foggy Morning, Little Pond.

Box Turtle

Box Turtle in Dewy Grass.

Tracks Through the Wet Grass.

Tracks Through the Wet Grass.

Afternoon:

Violets.

Sweet Violets, Sweeter than the Roses...

Pasture

Pasture.

Old Deer Stand

Old Deer Stand in Woods.

Bluebird House, Honeysuckle

Weathered Bird House on Windmill; Honeysuckle in Bloom.

New Leaves, Young Oak

New Leaves on a Young Oak Tree.

Barbed Wire, Post

Rusty Barbed Wire, Old Wood Post.

Moss on Rocks

Gray Moss on Rocks.

Evening:

Hummingbird Moth on Bugleweed

Hummingbird Moth on Bugleweed.

Snapping Turtle

Small Snapping Turtle.

Grass

At Grass Level.

Sky, Contrail

Plane Contrail.

Horsehead Pump

Horsehead Pump.

Indian Paintbrush

Indian Paintbrush.

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Bluebirds to Be

Bluebird Eggs in NestDuring our late afternoon walk today, we decided to peek into one of the bluebird nest boxes we have out in the pasture near one of the ponds.  Kel lifted me up so I could snap a photo with my phone of the eggs, though I couldn’t actually see them as they were so deep within the nest.  I didn’t think it was going to come out, but what a nice surprise to see this beautiful photo.  I had to share it.  What a lovely, soft nest, warm don’t you think?

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