Tag Archives: Utah

Christmas in the Backcountry

Backway Sign

The Backway. Down Burr Trail.

This was quite different.  An enormous gulf was between me and the world.  This was a different universe – withered, desert, lifeless; a fantastic universe where the presence of man was not foreseen, perhaps not desired. – Maurice Herzog, Annapurna

Fifty-eight years before Christopher McCandless hiked into Alaska to find himself (but died before completing the process…), 20-year old Everett Ruess wandered through the forbidding and desolate south central and southern Utah backcountry and disappeared. A hunter found Christopher’s body, but Everett was never found, though people have been searching for him ever since he vanished. There were a few tantalizing clues: Everett’s two mules were found tied up at a site where he’d camped; in a letter to his parents he wrote: As to when I shall visit civilization, it will not be soon, I think - and the name Nemo was discovered scratched into rock in several places. Nemo (“no man” in Latin) was the name Everett took to calling himself.  Ugly rumors circulated through the town in which he was last seen – some thought that Everett was murdered by cattle rustlers. He might have fallen from a cliff or gotten trapped in a slot canyon. Or maybe he just wanted to disappear.

I read about Everett a while back. It’s just the kind of story that fascinates me. I don’t have a risk-taker bone in my body, but I’m drawn to the lonely canyons, the red rock and slick rock, the twisted junipers, the colorful arches, fins, hoodoos and searing blue skies of southern Utah. Combine that with a real life mystery and I’m hooked like a Lake Erie Walleye. Kel and I spent Christmas in the thin air of Boulder without realizing until later that we were in Everett country. Boulder and sort-of nearby Escalante were Everett’s last known stomping grounds. He disappeared into the massive Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument which encompasses a mere 1,880,461 acres of pitiless landscape. It’s no wonder his remains were never found.

In addition to hiking in the Boulder area, we made our slow way home via Kodachrome Basin and Bryce Canyon. One huge advantage Kel and I have discovered about traveling here in the winter is that there are few other fools willing to do so. It’s possible to have stunning trails and sprawling National Parks all to one’s self (with the exception of Bryce Canyon which was teeming with visitors. At 7 degrees Fahrenheit accompanied by a bone-chilling wind, it was an astounding sight to see cars lined up at the entrance point.) Below are some pictures from our trip.

One Year Ago Today: Basic Seitan

Snowing in Boulder, UT

Snowing in Boulder, UT

Snow Crystals

Snow crystals, Bryce Canyon

Bryce Amphitheater

Looking into Bryce Amphitheater from Bryce Point

Bryce Amphitheater

Bryce Amphitheater

Natural Bridge, Bryce Canyon

Natural Bridge, Bryce Canyon

Calf Creek Canyon

Calf Creek Canyon, contrails

Lower Calf Creek Falls

Lower Calf Creek Falls

Calf Creek Canyon Overlook

Calf Creek Canyon Overlook

Wildflower, snow

Pasture in Boulder, UT

Pasture in Boulder, UT

Kodachrome Basin

Ike enjoying Kodachrome Basin

Chimney, Kodachrome Basin

Chimney, Kodachrome Basin

Highway 12 scenic overlook

Highway 12 scenic overlook

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Sundance, The Point of the Mountain and a Day Away

Sundance

August skies are lullabies/promises to keep
dandelions and twisting vines/clover at your feet
memories of aspen leaves/ trembling in the wind
honeybees and fantasies/where to start again
some place cool an’ green an’ shady
- John Denver, Cool an’ Green an’ Shady

It happened on an otherwise normal Thursday at around 5:30 pm, just as we were about to sit down to dinner and midway through a phone conversation the kind of which I’d had one too many of in the past few weeks.  What had been on a slow simmer began to boil.  My last nerve was shot.  I was suffering from road rage, sidewalk rage, apartment-building-hallway rage – not to mention grocery aisle rage – and for the next few hours I fumed and moped around like Victoria Beckham having to wear her “fat jeans.” Ike crawled under his side table “cave” and Kel nodded solemnly at my every curse and intoned, “Yes, dear.  Yes, dear,” a hopeful mantra designed to stave off the meltdown he could see coming.  The evening walk didn’t help.  A cup of hot chocolate made barely a dent.

Then a few hours after the phone call it hit me: I was seriously stressed out.  I needed a change of scenery and fast.  Luckily, a remedy was already in the works.  It was time to go where the air is thin and clean, the sky a piercing blue and where the wind holds an icy touch of the winter to come: the mountains.  By 10 am the next morning we were headed up to Bobby Redford’s little retreat in the Wasatch, Sundance.

Sundance

The winding road up to the resort is a therapy of its own.  One must concentrate on where the car is; there’s no space for anger or stress.  Sundance is tucked into the hills and amongst tall trees and despite the fact that there are restaurants, a screening room, art studios, cabins and homes (not to mention ski lifts and runs), it feels very secluded and small and homey.  Fall, in my opinion, is the perfect time to go.  Interspersed among the yellow-leaved aspens that blanket the mountainsides are bright dots of red, orange and deep green. We wandered around the resort and then treated ourselves to “wet” (no foam) soy lattes and settled onto a bench outside to watch the Beautiful People go by.  Because the tram up to the top of the mountain (and to hiking trails) doesn’t allow dogs, we finished up our lattes and decided to do our hiking elsewhere.

The road beyond Sundance is switchbacked and extremely narrow. It felt as if our car was skimming the edge of the road as vehicles coming the other direction drove past us.  I missed a lot of the scenery while hugging the road, but Kel reports that it was spectacular.  When we reached the Timpanogos trail head and the hiking route up to Stewart Falls we stopped for  a picnic lunch at the old amphitheater hidden among the pines, then we pulled on our day packs and headed up.  Unfortunately, just as the photo-taking was becoming interesting, my camera battery fizzled out and I had to turn to my trusty iPhone for the remainder of the hike.  The total 4-mile hike up and back to Stewart Falls took us about two hours.

Mountains

Mountains

On the way home we decided to take a short detour to visit The Point of the Mountains.  Kel had been reading a lot about paragliding lately and we learned that one of the premier spots in the country for the sport is right here in Utah.  When we arrived, it wasn’t looking good.  There were only a couple of cars in the parking lot and two guys gazing forlornly out from the high plateau down to the valley spread out below.  Two gliders lay still strapped to the tops of the cars, wrapped up tight in their canvas burritos.  There wasn’t a breath of wind.

Active Fly Zone

While Kel went off to interrogate Man Number One, Man Number Two suddenly appeared beside me and Ike.  We started talking about dogs and soon enough Dave, a hang-glider and instructor of 41 years, offered to take me up on his glider once the wind was right.  My mother didn’t raise a fool and I simply laughed it off and let Ike pull me away from the salesman pressure for a bit. Before long, Kel and Dave and I and Man Number One were talking wind and gliders and geography and how silly and foolish paragliders were as compared to hang-gliders.

Man Number One decided to set up his glider just in case the wind changed and Dave got to talking about thermals and how thermals were all about contrasts: dirt and pavement; high ground and low; heat and cool; light and dark.  I got it, but my mind wandered anyway.  The view out there was just too big, too beautiful.  Endless sky above, a long, flat valley below with the mighty artery of I-15 splitting it in two, teeming with rush hour cars headed for home, north and south; to the east the Wasatch buckled and climbed; to the west lay the hazy shimmer of the Great Salt Lake.  As Dave’s voice morphed into the pleasant hum of white noise, my eyes drifted upwards and I saw a large hawk circling high above the field on which we stood.  He was gliding effortlessly, wheeling in the air without moving a single feather.  No doubt it looked down upon us poor humans with pity and mirth.  Our puny wingspans, our heavy burden called gravity.  There was no doubt in my mind that his presence above the well-known hang-gliding and paragliding site was no accident. He was shoving his winged freedom in our faces.

Ann, Glider

At some point, Dave set up his glider and offered to let me slip into the upside down hammock-suit – “just to get a feel” for things.  Once I felt how comfortable it was he was pretty sure I’d be asking to take the glider for a spin with him. (For the low, low price of $100.)  I hung out in the hammock-suit for a while and then all at once a strong breeze rose over the plateau.  I looked across the field and saw paragliders everywhere – their colorful parachutes billowing and collapsing, rising and falling.  Some fliers were already strapped into their funny “seats” that resemble turtle shells, some dragging their chutes to the edge of the field where they would step off and hope to be lifted into the air.  Already gliders were circling above us, seeking the hawk’s thermal.  They made their slow way along the edge of the plateau and up and up, heading east and then west again, then east.  Some of them were high above, looking as if they were going to touch their toes along the mountain’s edge.  We feared the gliders – so close together – would collide and fall, but somehow they all missed each other.  I extricated myself from the hammock and soon enough we saw Dave climb into his suit and lope off carrying his hang-glider.  He walked slowly and with effort along the thin gravel runway at the end of which is a sign imbedded into the ground that admonishes pilots to “Hook In.”  Dave stood at the edge for a minute and then he was off the ground, soaring, moving with a speed and purpose unmatched by the paragliders.  He looked like a giant bird.  For a tiny second I wished I had hooked in next to him, but the solid earth felt pretty good under my feet.  He seemed to be heading straight for the sun.  I watched him for a while and then looked back above the field and then above the mountains, but the hawk was gone.  There were only humans flying.

(How does this fit into VeganMoFo?  Did I mention that I had two soy lattes that day?)

Hook In

VeganMoFo

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From 10k to Ten Mile

Ten Mile Wash, EveningI thought that I’d have a lot to write about after the weekend memorial for my brother, but it turns out that I don’t. I feel emptied out instead. There are only the details, big and small, that make up a trip. I thought I’d take lots of photos as I made my way through the scenic 10k; I didn’t pause once. And I thought I’d walk at least half of the race, but I didn’t. I ran it straight through.

There were nine of us (plus Ike) who completed the 10k and a support team of three who shuttled cars from the Start to the Finish and who cheered us in as we crossed the finish line and reached for our medals.

Afterwards, there were my brother’s friends waiting for us at Ten Mile Wash to drive us down into the sand and rocks to show us the spaces that meant so much to my brother. It is stark down there. Stark and harsh and bleak but clean, beautiful and heartbreaking.

The first stop was the site where my brother’s dog (Pooper) was buried years ago. Each of us carried a rock to add to her cairn. The second was a hollow, a cathedral interior of swirling red scooped out of bare rock called The Fishbowl (renamed The Chuck Bowl). If it wasn’t before, it certainly is now a sacred site. Something of my brother remains in both places. I felt him very strongly that day and understand him just a little bit better.

Back up above the wash there was food and beer and scotch; a blazing sunset fading into orange and pink as a blazing fire reached into the sky. There were dirt bikes and trailers, four-wheelers and one porta-potty perched in the bed of a pick-up truck. There were tears and hugs and memories and the persistent gnaw of loss. But the next day, as the fragile light from the morning sun crept along the rocks and as we pulled away from camp, there was relief and calm and a kind of joy.

Little Grand CanyonNear the Finish Line, Buckhorn Wash.

Kel & Ike, Finish LineKel & Ike cross the Finish Line.

Family GroupThe family post-race.

Race Bibs, MedalsMy bib and medal; my brother’s bib and medal.

Ten Mile Wash OverlookOverlooking Ten Mile Wash.

Pooper's GravePooper’s grave site.

From Pooper's GraveLooking out at the Wash from Pooper’s Grave.

The FishbowlInside The Chuck Bowl.

Flowers & AshesDesert flowers and ashes.

The Wash, MorningThe Wash in the morning.

CampCamp.

Tire Tread

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(Eating Vegan) Under the Sheltering Sky

Two Cookie-cookies

It can be challenging enough to feed Kel and me while we are on the road, but what about feeding 10 or 11 or 15?  In a place with (count them) zero restaurants, convenience stores or a bright and shiny Whole Foods stocked with vegan salads, hummus and whole grain bread?  Now consider that most of those I’ll be feeding are carnivores.

To celebrate my brother’s life, a big group of us – including many camping greenhorns (I’m among that number) – are heading south into the desert of Ten Mile Wash for a few days to spend time in a place my brother loved.  And before we do that, we’re running, walking or strolling The Little Grand Canyon 10k.  An army fights on its stomach; we have to eat.  By my count we’ll have two breakfasts, two lunches and one dinner out in the boonies.  I’ve cooked in small kitchens before, but the camper kitchen is a little snug, so I’m planning on bringing everything down in a nearly-finished or finished state.  Coolers will be clearly marked with “breakfast,” “lunch” and “dinner.”  Plastic bins will have almond butter, mixed grains, trail mix, dried fruit, utensils, kitchen towels, wet wipes, foil, freezer bags, a cutting board, knives and of course, lots of dog food for Ike.  He has to eat, too.

I planned out my menu several weeks in advance and in the week before the trip, I’ve been preparing and pre-baking and -making what I can.  I started with dessert first (makes sense, right?) with crazy Cookie Cookies from The Complete Guide to Vegan Food Substitutions.  Along with Double Chocolate Cookies with Blueberries and Mini Dark Chocolate Cashew Cheezcakes  (based on a recipe by Somer at Good Clean Food - who toiled away in her kitchen to develop these just for me; her selfless family did the taste-testing), our sweet teeth should be well-satisfied.

Mini Chocolate Cheezcakes

Mini CheezcakesBreakfasts will consist of mixed rolled grains with dried fruit and almond milk, whole grain bread with cashew and almond butters, apples, bananas and yummy raw bars featured in a previous post; plus the amazing Cookie Bites from a recipe by Erika at Good Clean Food.  My friend Sue specifically requested coffee so I’ll be bringing down a pound of Two Creek which serves up a proprietary blend from Jack Mormon Coffee.

Two Creeks Coffee

Cookie Bites

BBQ Tofu in TortillaFor lunch on the first day, we’ll have BBQ Baked Tofu Sandwiches from The Real Food Daily Cookbook, by Ann Gentry, served on Ezekial sprouted (wheat-free) tortillas (these are my new favorite thing) loaded with avocado, arugula, red onion and an amazing ranch dressing also from Real Food Daily.  Black bean potato salad with arugula pesto should compliment the sandwiches nicely.  That recipe is courtesy of the Forks Over Knives: The Plant-Based Way to Health cookbook.  We’ve got some gluten-intolerant folks coming along and I don’t want anyone to go hungry.

Macadamia Nut Cheez

Red Lentil Soup

We’ll start dinner off with a few slabs of Macadamia Nut Cheez, another recipe from the good folks at The Complete Guide to Vegan Food Substitutions.  It can get pretty chilly in the desert as the sun sets, so I’ll employ one of the camper’s burners to heat up a big pot of Red Lentil Soup also from the first Forks Over Knives cookbook.  I use green garbanzo beans instead of green beans and add mustard seeds and fresh spinach and cilantro.  It is such a flavorful and satisfying soup and I was able to freeze a big batch several days before the trip.  I’ll serve Curried Couscous Salad with the soup as well as whole grain rolls and the aforementioned mini Chocolate Cashew Cheezecakes.

I’m trying not to stress out too much, but there’s some pressure here.  Most of the people I will be feeding are not vegan and I want their eating experience to be satisfying, surprising (in a good way) and delicious.  I’d love to change some minds about what it means to eat plant-based.  I’d also like to be prepared enough that I can focus on why we are out in the desert.  This is all about remembering and celebrating my brother.

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A Peach Pie in Pictures

PeachesTwenty dollars later, Kel and I became the proud owners of a giant box of locally grown peaches, each one picture perfect.  Peaches grow everywhere in Bountiful, weighing down the gnarled trees in nearly every backyard, tempting us – begging us to relieve the poor branches of their juicy payload. Yes! we reply, but quickly remember that we would be trespassing.  Peaches are summer – the beginning of the end of summer – and baking a peach pie is a sacred rite of the season.

Cut Peaches in BowlI’ve done nothing special or innovative here.  I just baked a standard peach pie; cutting way back on the amount of sweetener simply because these peaches were as sweet as candy just as they were. Why mess with a classic?  So, I’m not including a recipe here.  Buy yourself a mess of peaches (8-10 will do), dig up your mom’s tried-and-true crust recipe (I used the one on the back of a bag of Bob’s Red Mill Whole Wheat Pastry Flour) and get to work.

Crumble for FillingThis is an ode to peaches and freshly-baked pie; warm nights, Queen Anne’s lace, the chainsawing of crickets, gardens gone wild and the whiff of melancholy that accompanies the precious, honeyed days of late summer.

Pie Under Construction

Unbaked Pie

Baked PieYour crust might not fully cooperate (as mine did not) and it may become a homely mess once placed onto a plate (as mine did), but it will taste sweet and delicious (as mine did).  It will taste like summer and make you want to hang on to every last second of August even as the days get shorter.  The memory of your peach pie just might carry you through the dark days of January and February.  Remember, those peach trees will be out there, covered in snow, racking up the necessary cold hours, dreaming of the spring to come and the chance to overload their branches yet again with golden-red fruit.

Two Slices of Pie

Important Serving Note: a homemade peach pie is best served alongside a generous scoop of dairy-free vanilla ice cream.  It’s simply a matter of respect.

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Apple Butter Cookies

Apple ButterThis easy recipe for very old-fashioned-sounding cookies comes from the lone vegan cookbook on the shelves at the otherwise exhaustively stocked kitchen store, Gygi, in Salt Lake City.  A typical trip there goes something like this: go to pick up only a package of parchment paper sheets and – - leave, pushing a shopping cart with aforementioned parchment (in two sizes) several small pieces of china that were “on sale,” plastic lids for half-sheet baking pans, an elf-sized spatula perfect for prying recalcitrant brownies out of pans, colorful paper muffin cups and yet another set of measuring spoons.  Will it be long before I enter Gygi and a la Norm at Cheers I am greeted with a hearty shout of “Annie!!”?

Oh right, the cookbook.  It’s called The 100 Best Vegan Baking Recipes, by Kris Holechek.  A very nice collection of recipes; we’ll be spending a lot of time together.  Per my usual method, I used predominantly whole wheat flour, halved the sugar, halved the fat and added nuts.

One last very important thing: thank you again to all of you who have reached out to offer support, condolences, love and wisdom over the past weeks.  Your heartfelt words have warmed and comforted me.

Apple Butter Cookies
Makes ~ 2 dozen

Pitcher, Glass1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. powdered stevia
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 cup vegan butter, softened
1/2 very ripe banana, mashed
1/4 cup maple sugar
3/4 cup apple butter (I used R.W. Knudsen’s organic which has no added sugar)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup chopped and toasted nuts

In a small bowl, combine the flours, baking powder, baking soda, stevia, cinnamon, ginger and salt.  Set aside.

In a large bowl, cream together the butter and maple sugar.  Add in the banana, apple butter and vanilla, using a whisk to create a smooth mixture (it will look a little curdled).  Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients in two batches and mix until well-combined – then stir in the chopped nuts.

Either put the batter into the refrigerator for a few hours to firm up (at which point you can roll the dough into balls and flatten to make nice, round cookies) or – preheat the oven to 350F, line 2 baking sheets with parchment and simply drop the dough by the tablespoonful onto the cookie sheets.  Bake for 12-14 minutes or until firm and lightly browned on the bottoms.
Cookies on a Plate

Cookies on a Plate, Bite

Apple Butter Cookie

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Good Stuff

Cream Deodorant in JarSo I’m back in the (sweltering hot) sticks – at least for a little while.  I’m on Ike Duty for a few days and our first order of business was a trip to Whole Foods in Oklahoma City.  We were there, panting in front of the big, shiny windows when they opened the doors at 8 am, a long list and politically-correct shopping bags in hand.  We picked up, among other wonderful items, some extra virgin coconut oil and a bunch of essential oils so that I could whip up a batch of Somer’s Patented Pit Paste (I added the Patented, just cuz it sounds all snazzy with the extra p-word thrown in) as I’d forgotten to pack my beloved Soapwalla deodorant cream.  It took me all of about 5 minutes to make a small jar of the stuff.  Smells great and looks like something I’d smother in chocolate sauce and eat with a spoon.

Tearoom Delights Guidebook

There was a big pile of mail waiting for me, most of which I converted directly to recyclables, save for a couple of nice things like an issue of VegNews, enough New Yorker magazines to provide reading material for the next 6 months and a wee, wonderful book from Lorna over at Tearoom Delights.  A loyal follower of Lorna’s funny and yummy blog about tea, confections and travels, I needed to have my own copy of her newly-published guide.  One day – who knows – I may be able to put it to practical use!  Anyway, I’m so happy to have it and am really proud of Lorna for her accomplishment.  Word on the street is she’s already begun book number two.  To find out how to get your very own copy, visit Teacups Press.  If you ask nice, she might even sign it, just as she did my copy.

AstigVegan CollageAlso waiting for me was my prize from AstigVegan for bidding on the VSPCA (via Richa at Hobby and More) online auction a few months back.  The ladies at AstigVegan generously donated a gift set and I was determined to snag their neat package of goodies: pili nut cheese (sadly all gone by the time I got home) a canvas bag and a fantastic “cookbooklet” with the top recipes from RG and TJ’s creative site.  They did a great job of putting this ‘let together and I’m thrilled to have it.  I am looking forward to diving into their unusual (at least for this Heinz 57 Variety American) and delicious-sounding Filipino recipes.

Time to get back into the kitchen – how I’ve missed it!  Got a long list of goodies to make before I head back to Utah.

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Thankful & Thoughtful

Boots, Helmet, Ski Poles

What made him tick.

The things alive do not know the secret… Of late years, however, I have come to suspect that the mystery may just as well be solved in a carved and intricate seed case out of which life has flown, as in the seed itself.  – Loren Eiseley, The Immense Journey

My brother died at 3:25 am July 5.  The pop and sizzle of neighbors’ firecrackers kept him company that night, gray skies and a gentle rain in the morning broke the spell of heat and drought and sun; more soothing than melancholy.  Determined and independent in his dying days as he was as a vibrant, healthy man, I have no doubt his plan was to make it through July 4; July was his favorite month and Independence Day his favorite holiday.

In the hours and days after his death, little things took on weighted importance: the memory of the last meal together at a restaurant; the image of a sweet smile when at last voice and words, but not comprehension, were taken from him; the half-full glass of water by his bed; the backpack on the kitchen table containing bottles of aspirin, ear plugs and a bathing suit from the last trip he took (to California); the tube of toothpaste, indented in the middle by the squeeze of his hand; his beat-up work boots looking as if he’d stepped out of them mere moments before.  It is those things more than the profound and sobering permanence of passing that make me break down.  What is more poignant than the little, seemingly insignificant objects and moments that make up a human life?

Anyone who has suffered through an illness or has helped a family member or friend knows that it is not a solo project.  It is a team effort requiring tens of supporting and supportive roles.  And so I have many people to thank.  First and foremost among them, my family.  My mom and dad dug deep and called on reserves that any 20-year old would envy.  Their strength and dignity through that lonesome night of loss is an example I will carry with me.  My other brother whose advise and care steadied during moments of stress and uncertainty.  My sister was a rock, holding firm during times when I melted like a candle.  Love to my partner, Kel, for keeping the home fires stoked and for caring for our little (furry) one, Ike.  His support has never wavered.  He loved my brother.  The caring embrace of extended family was felt over the long miles.

It is impossible to imagine what this process would have been like without the guidance, knowledge and compassion of our hospice team.  There were many late night visits and phone calls – moments of doubt and fear made manageable by a comforting voice on the other end of the line.  Stacey, Robyn and Carolyn guided us down that very difficult road.  Special gratitude goes to John, the gentle aide who helped my brother maintain his pride and dignity up to that very last day of life.  We were also fortunate to meet Riley, a young man who made our nights easier by his patient presence and his willingness to be touched by a family’s saddest hours.

Thanks and love go to the many friends – old and new, near and far – who sent emails and called.  The comments both here and on Facebook were deeply appreciated.  In challenging times, the true and the false are shown in stark relief: some of my brother’s friends reached lovingly out to us, shared aspects of him we never knew and offered to help in any way that they could.  Fate or coincidence sent Somer into my life at just the right moment.  She shared her huge, loving, nurturing heart with my brother, but also loaded the back of her vehicle – several times – with plant-based deliciousness and made the trek to Bountiful to spend time with me and open her arms for much-needed hugs.  Her beautiful kids never failed to cheer me with their exuberance and their life and energy.  Along with her friends Amanda and Erika (who have never met me, by the way) she provided heart, soul and stomach nourishment.  Thank you ladies of the Good Clean Food Relief Society.

In a strange twist, Faye came into my life on the very day my brother died and at the very coffee shop where he and I would go after his appointments at the clinic.  Over mutual admiration for short haircuts, I learned that Faye has the same type of brain cancer as my brother.  I’m not one to linger long on the oddities the universe occasionally throws across my path, but one would have to be devoid of imagination not to think something rather huge was up.  I hope to spend a lot more time with Faye and to share with her the thin threads of knowledge gathered over the past couple of years.

Merck and Genentech earned my gratitude for providing their prohibitively costly chemo drugs gratis through their assistance programs; big pharmaceuticals aren’t all bad.  Novocure not only requires thanks for pursuing interesting cancer treatment options, I’m indebted to them for giving my brother – free – their Novocure TTF helmet, a recently FDA-approved alternative treatment using electric fields to disrupt cancer cell growth.  Dr. Santosh Kesari at his lab at UCSD prescribed the device and he also, up until the last weeks of my brother’s life, suggested other treatment options.

Lastly, thanks to my brother’s medical team at The Huntsman Cancer Institute, especially to sweet Crelley who has become a friend, and Sean, who spent hours with me on the phone over the past two years explaining complex issues and trying to figure out what made my brother tick.  From the beginning of this journey they provided hope and knowledge and gave my brother another year of life when all seemed lost on bleak November days in 2010.  I often wonder how they can work day after day knowing that many of their patients will live only a short time post-diagnosis.  I am grateful there are people willing to devote their lives to treating such a formidable disease.  May a cure be found soon.

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The Spiral Jetty

Sign to Spiral JettyI don’t have a Bucket List of places around the world that I need to see before I shrug off this mortal coil, but – deep in the recesses of my mind – I do keep a list of sorts.  It’s a fairly short list of works of art that mean something to me for one reason or another.  Over the years I’ve been lucky enough to cross off the majority of the items on this mental list, but one has refused to budge.  It is, in fact, geographically the closest piece to me, yet it has remained frustratingly elusive.  Until recently, that is.

Strung out along the edge of Rozel Point on the Great Salt Lake in Utah, the earthwork Spiral Jetty was created by Robert Smithson over a few week period in April 1970.  It’s a delicate tendril of basalt rock and salt crystals that curls 1,500 feet out into the sometimes pink, sometimes red waters.  Come when the level of the lake is high (as we did) and the spiral nearly disappears.  At other times, one can walk onto the lake to the very end of the spiral and turn back to look at the shore and the scrubby brown hills rising away from it.

There is some work, planning and dedication involved in visiting the Jetty, although recent improvements to the gravel road out to the site have made going there relatively easy.  But it is in the middle of nowhere; Smithson chose his site perfectly.  The isolation and remoteness of the Jetty make it the ideal place for contemplation, reflection, connecting with the natural world or just a pleasant afternoon hike.  Lake and sky blend together at the horizon, the wind is constant, waves of yellow-green algae sweep along the jumbled surface of the Jetty and salt crystals sparkle among the black rocks as pelicans fly their steady, patient beat high above.  Smithson’s creation doesn’t impose on or overwhelm the surroundings.  Though obviously man-made, it feels like a natural extension of the shore (unlike the decaying relic of a true jetty not far from the Spiral Jetty).  Spending time with the Jetty is not unlike the feeling one gets from a long and satisfying yoga session.

All we have, it seems to me, is the beauty of art and nature and life and the love which that beauty inspires.
― Edward Abbey, The Journey Home: Some Words in Defense of the American West

Now, after extolling the virtues of this mystical place, I’m going to do my best Edward Abbey imitation by both encouraging you to go see this treasure – and imploring you to stay away.  Although it is made of rocks, the Spiral is touchingly fragile.  Too many feet will quickly destroy what has endured for the past forty-two years.  Not too long ago, Spiral-seekers needed 4-wheel drive, sturdy hiking boots (the last few miles had to be walked) and a true love of art and nature in order to pay homage to Smithson’s masterpiece.  Now anyone in a low-slung sedan can cruise to the edge of the Jetty, lean out of the car window to snap a photo, and speed off again, leaving a plume of light brown desert dust behind him.  If you come, come with respect, tread lightly and leave in awe of what nature can inspire in man.

The Road In

The road in.

Horses

A lucky tribe of horses.

Water

Water meets sky.

Rock Cairn

A rock cairn at an old, abandoned jetty not far from the Spiral Jetty.

Salt-splashed Rocks

Salt spray on rocks.

Old Pier

This is not the Spiral Jetty.

Pelicans

Black-winged pelicans.

Salt on Rocks

Salt, looking like snow.

Spiral Start

Where the Jetty begins.

Spiral Jetty From Above

The Spiral Jetty, from above and under water.

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